Three Jaw Chuck Jaw Cleaning

Freeing the Chuck

WARNING

Before doing any work on your lathe or any other machine in the workshop, Make sure that the machine is isolated from Mains or any other form of power.

Freeing The Chuck

One method of freeing the chuck, is to clamp a socket firmly in the jaws, then using a Tommy Bar.

Strike the Tommy Bar sharply in a counter clockwise direction, enough to free the chuck from the spindle.

If you have a large, Allen Key, or Hex key, it can be used in the same way.

If your chuck has not been removed for sometime, you might have to resort to a "bigger Ammer" .

I find that a soft face metallic hammer is more effective than say a Rubber or Wood Mallet, as the metallic hammer gives a sharper shock to the chuck, especially if the chuck is quite tight.

Removing the Chuck

Removing The Chuck

Support the chuck with both hands as you unscrew it counter clockwise from the lathe spindle.

You don't want the chuck to fall onto the lathe bed and damage it, the chuck, or your hands/toes.

Some people place a wooden board on the lathe bed when removing the chuck, in case the chuck does fall, I would rather not drop it in the first place.

Inspecting the Spindle

The Head stock Spindle

While the chuck is off, it is worth checking the head stock spindle threads and seat for wear and tear, also check for any form of cracking.

If you do detect any type of cracking, seek professional advice, as cracking of this component whilst unusual, is extremely dangerous.

As you can see in the picture my Head stock spindle is well worn as it has seen hard use over the years, but it still accepts and aligns the chuck very accurately, even after all this time, this says a lot for the basic Myford design.

Un-winding the Jaws

Working on the Chuck

Having cleared a suitable area on the bench, lay down some paper towel or lint free cloth, on the bench, and place the chuck on it.

Wipe off any oil or muck with a piece of paper towel, or lint free cloth.

I use a spare piece of square steel to rotate the chuck jaw tightening/loosening socket, as it is easier to use on the bench, than the chuck key.

Rotate the key counter clock wise to open the jaws.

Un-winding the Jaws

Un-winding the Jaws Nearly there

Keep an eye on the threads as you unwind the jaws, and make a mental note of any sticky or tight bits as the jaws open.

Removing No 1 Jaw

Removing the Number One Jaw

As you wind out the jaws, grasp the number one jaw and pull it gently.

The number one jaw will released first, followed by number two, then three.

No. 1 Jaw Removed

Just lay the jaw on the paper towel, untill all the jaws are removed.

All Three Jaws Removed

Ready for cleaning, you can see the dirt and swarf in the centre of the chuck.

DO NOT use cleaning fluids on the chuck mechanism or the threads.

Cleaning the Chuck Jaws

The photo shows me cleaning the jaw over the chuck, it is better practise to do this over your rubbish bin.

Use an old tooth brush and give the jaws a good scrub.

If like mine, your lathe and chuck are old, there will be pitting and staining.

Don't worry about these, just clean the jaw so that it is free of any oil muck, or swarf.

A Nice Clean Jaw

You can see the staining and the pitting, clearly here, they are of no consequence as long as the slide way is clean.

Don't polish the staining off, you will do more harm than good.

All Three Jaws, Cleaned and Ready to be Assembled

Put the jaws in a clean place, while you clean the chuck and the chuck scroll.

All Three Jaws, Cleaned and Ready to be Assembled

Jaw Pitting

You can see the pitting on the jaws in this image, a sign of years of hard use, also neglect, before I purchased the lathe.

It is all cosmetic, the chuck is stll extremely accurate, and usefulness.

One Dirty Chuck and Scroll

Right ready for cleaning.

DO NOT use cleaning fluids, just an old tooth brush and paper towel, or lint free cloths.

NEVER Clean a chuck, with an Air Line.

Brush away the swarf and wipe off any oil grease or gunge.

Once the centre portion has been cleaned, you are ready to lean the scroll.

Cleaning the Chuck Scroll

I prefer to cut a piece of softwood, with various shapes to fit into the scroll.

Gently push the wood down into the scroll, turn the scroll using your piece of square steel.

Do it a bit at a time, taking out the wood and giving it a wipe then a bit more, untill you have cleaned the whole scroll.

It might appear to be long winded, but you can do it quite quickly, and it is very satisfying to get out all the old gunge.

Cleaned and Ready for Re-Assembly

Do not use oil on the scroll, a bit of silicon spray is OK but no oil.

Rotate the scroll, so that the start of the thread is visible at the No 1 slot.

Back the scroll until the start is just not quite visible.

Re-Assembly, Jaw No. 1

Select Jaw No 1, and slide into place.

Turn the scroll clockwise, until you feel the jaw moving in.

Move the chuck round to the No 2 slot and repeat the above process.

Move the chuck around to the No 3 slot and repeat.

If the jaws seem too sticky, take them back out and re clean both them and the scroll.

They should be quite smooth when they are wound in.

The Re-Assembled Chuck

Here is the result of your labour, a nice clean smoothly working chuck, ready for your next masterpiece.

Shown here with the piece of scrap steel that I used to wind the scroll.